TAKING CARE OF YOUR NEW SAPLING
Once your saplings have been planted, it is incredibly important that they survive and grow. Lucky for you, taking care of bare root saplings is pretty simple and straightforward, and we have put this guide together to help you!
PLANTING
Please watch this video or follow the steps below:
https://youtu.be/hACclYmmR2A
Dig a hole 2-3 times the diameter of the root structure. Taper the edges of the hole so that the shape resembles a cone.
Loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole so roots can easily extend deeper once they begin to grow. The roots will be unable to penetrate compact soil.
When placing the sapling in the soil, all roots should be facing down (roots should not form a J shape or point up). If they do, dig a larger hole.
The root collar should be in line with the soil surface.
Fill the hole with the removed soil and use fingers to work the soil between the roots. Pack firmly enough that the sapling is stable upright, but not tightly - this will prevent root growth.
Create a ridge of soil around the sapling to help contain/collect water.
Water the newly planted sapling when finished.
WATERING
Water generously every 7-10 days for the first year.
Completely soak the area and allow for the water to seep in, then soak again.
If you have created a ridge around the sapling, fill it then allow it to completely drain, then repeat.
After the first year, you do not need to regularly water your sapling unless there is a drought or dry weather. Water every 1-2 weeks if there has been no rainfall.
MULCHING
Mulching is up to you, but it helps your sapling grow by providing extra moisture retention and preventing weed growth. It can also protect the sapling from lawn equipment.
Mulching steps:
Add bark mulch, pine straw, or wood chips in a 2 ft diameter, 2 inches deep around the sapling.
Be sure that the mulch is not touching the sapling’s trunk.
Keep in mind: mulch should be moist but never soggy.
FERTILIZER
DO NOT fertilize your saplings as it can burn the roots.
After 2-3 years of growing, the tree may need some extra nutrients, especially nitrogen. Once the tree is mature, it does not need to be fertilized. It is best to fertilize in the spring months from March to June. Follow specific directions on the fertilizer bag of your choosing. Apply the fertilizer to the diameter of the tree's crown, avoiding the trunk. Then water the area so the nutrients are absorbed and not washed away.
DO'S AND DON'TS
Don’ts:
If mulching around the tree, make sure that no mulch is touching the stem, this will lead to rot.
Do not add peat moss, compost, or other organic material as the roots will not grow past this layer into the soil.
Do not add fertilizer, the chemicals may burn the young roots.
Do’s:
You can insulate the soil with wood chips or straw to prevent freezing and contain moisture.
If you are in an area with lots of rodents or deer, you may want to surround the tree with mesh hardware cloth or a small fence. This also protects against lawn equipment.
If in a windy area, secure the small sapling by tying the trunk to a stake placed beside it.
This only needs to be done for the first year to allow time for their roots to grow into the soil.
Consider weeding around the sapling. Large weeds or invasive plants may grow larger root structures faster, which could out-compete the sapling.